Since my last post from Kampuchea (Cambodia)...
We got busy on our last day of the tour in Cambodia, which was fabulous (cycling about 100 km ~ 60 miles; I'll go into more details later). Then we went to Thailand after our six days in Cambodia. The end of that long travel day rewarded us with a beautiful sunset, Thai cuisine, rum and cokes at the side of a placid infinity pool all to ourselves, and skinny dipping under an umbrella of glorious fireworks, in the Bay of Thailand (whoops, did I just reveal that intimate detail to my entire blog readership!? It was a really lovely bathwater-temperature, hardly any waves, and so inviting, though that sand was obnoxious!). That's all to say, that in our couple days of R&R on one of Thailand's many beaches, exploring, and playing with elephants and fuzzling a tiger, I got lazy and opted to stop blogging. I did, however post little pictorial updates on Facebook, so I apologize to my Fb friendlies if anything that follows in this blogpost is repetitive.
So, I'll backtrack a bit and fill in some more details in summary of day two on the cycle tour of Siem Reap/Angkor Wat and ancient temples in Cambodia, which I believe I briefly blogged about while
in Kampuchea... the cycling around in warm, breezy weather was great, getting to experience temples (including Angkor Wat and Angkor
Thom communities), sighting elephants, and enjoying well-seasoned Khmer food on a dinner
date (as well as classic cultural fish-coconut-curry soup for lunch!), and
closing the night with a Khmer massage. Absolutely lovely. We were ready to get back on our bikes for
another fantastic day of temple touring!
On day three of our cycle tour (day five of our vacay), we went returned to Angkor Wat (the temple, not just the general region), to revisit the temple and it's third level ("Heaven"), since it was not open on Sunday, marking the Chinese New Year (CNY) holiday. Dressed in appropriate clothing that covered our shoulders and knees, we got a top-notch view of the surrounding area, and got to see the water lilies, their pink blossoms opened to the morning sun's rays. Gorgeous. Exiting on our own out the south entrance, we met up with Vireak, our tour guide, and Vannak, our driver, remounting our bicycles for the day. Off we went in the direction of Banteay Srei, visiting more ancient ruins of Hindu and Buddhist temples, learning how to harvest and make palm juice
sugar-candies, and
alongside
rice-harvesters in the fields as we biked by. After a picnic lunch, we further enjoyed ourselves, playing with local kids in the dirty, low waters of the dry-season Siem Reap River. Later in the afternoon, returning to the modern city of Siem Reap, we visited a silk art and pottery-carving training school and workshop, observing the intricate arts that so many disabled and underprivileged Khmer have been given the opportunity to learn and develop as a trade. After signing a bit with some of the deaf craftswomen, we moved on to a massive gift shop, displaying the handiwork. However, one of the highlights of the day that I should not neglect to mention was cooling off with a MINT CHOCOLATE CHIP ICE CREAM cone! Yes, you read that correctly. Mint choc chip. In Asia. Not green tea. Hallelujah! Never tasted such refreshment. We finished the day with a night on the town, enjoying cocktails and a Khmer dinner together. Not a bad day.
In the morning, at 6am, once our van was push started (in REVERSE, might I mention), we were delivered at a bus pickup (because "station" would be a gross exaggeration of where we caught this bus), and said our adieus and thank yous to Vireak and Vannak. The bus was at least 40 minutes late (said to depart at 7am), and decided to stop only about 45 minutes down the road at a convenience shop, for an extended period of time, for no apparent reason. We finally reached the Thai-Khmer border around 9:30am. We said, "Thanks,
Kampuchea, it's been real," and headed through the logistical details of crossing this sketch Southeast Asian border into the Kingdom of Thailand.
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Please click on this photo and zoom in to see the morning treat we got to witness while pulled over on the side of a Cambodian road, on the way to the border |
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Right before the border of Kampuchea/Kingdom of Thailand,
we were getting our bus tickets exchanged for when we got the Thailand side.
This torn banner portrays a statement that is not entirely truthful.
Try
the slogan on the flipside:
"Tourism (also) contributes to the the
advancement of exploitation,
distrust, sex and drug trafficking, injustice,
pollution,
and degradation of not only natural habitat and cleanly
environments,
but also washing away authentic culture, unique customs and
language,
promulgating cyclical thinking of egotism, entitlement, and
priviledged minority."
Doesn't quite have the same ring to it, does it?
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| Made it to Jomtien Beach, Pattaya, Thailand |
Six hours later, having made it across the border successfully out of Kampuchea (the Kingdom of Cambodia) and into southeastern region of Ratcha-anachak Thai (the Kingdom of Thailand), with all body parts in tact, we arrived in Pattaya then by an aircon minivan, complete with ceiling fan. There, we were dropped on a street corner and had to figure out transportation to Jomtien Beach (about 5k further south on Highway 3), where we had hotel/resort reservations. We navigated our way to a large parking lot, where we communicated our need for a taxi, which turned out to be the back of a pickup truck with benches. Quite airy. We were nearly in warm, tropical heaven (as compared to coming from our present habitat known as Frozen-Over China) when we arrived at our hotel, with A/C, an infinity pool, the beach just meters away, with gentle waves lapping on golden sand, under the orangey sunset beams.
Other than the fact that that region of the world seems not
to believe in towel racks, the people were friendly and full of smiles, the food
was sweet and delicious (we renamed our food babies "Buddha
bellies" in honor of the region's religious majority), and the drinks were cheap(er)... though not nearly as cheap as in Kampuchea.
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| Pad Thai done right! |

The following day, we fully took advantage of a full day on the beachfront along the bay of Thailand: swimming
in the sea, reading by/in the infinity pool, eating deeelish, authentic Pad
Thai, playing with and helping a stray puppy (I think I'm gonna start an
orphanage for stray pups in Asia one of these days...), and sampling a Singha
Thai beer, receiving a therapeutic Thai oil massage, as well as doing a bit of
exploring in the little town, and chatting with locals (employees and owners)
of businesses for tourists in the area. And apparently we did not completely
escape CNY fireworks in Thailand. There was an abundance of them set off right around midnight.
Our second full day in Thailand, February 14, we got stir crazy, so we arranged to go to the Nong
Nooch Gardens (10km south of Pattaya, about 5k further down the road from Jomtien beach in Chonburi). In addition to seeing whimsical pottery and corn-cob displays, I realized another fanciful aspiration that will probably
never come to fruition; I think I'm going to need to run away and join the circus, or
at least become an elephant whisperer/trainer/co-entertainer, in my new-found
love of the marvelously intelligent and kind, lumbering animals. We spent our Valentine's Day lovin' on some elephants and watching some traditional Thai shows of cultural dance, history, and art. That afternoon, we further enjoyed the Thai beach, food, and I had another massage (on the beach). Watching the sun set from the water, we breathed deeply and enjoyed the bliss.
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| Beautiful kitty |
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Valentines on a little love boat, made out of pottery. (Pretty sure it wouldn't float) |
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| Seussville? |
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| Getting on the metro in Shanghai |
On February 15, we left our hotel not too early, and were driven via a private service to the Bangkok international airport, long before we needed to be there for check in. On our layover in Guangzhou, China, about 6 hours later, we were welcomed back to the land of VPN and other less-mentionable attributes this huge country presents, when we walked
into a wall of cigarette smoke, inside, and then, upon going to the bathroom,
saw all the seats up, with footprints on the rims (Chinese women stand and crouch
over toilet seats, based on a different style of porcelain throne that is less
of a throne and more of a squatty-pit). Nihao once again, China!
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| In the sketchy hotel |
Upon arriving in China around 8pm, we were out of luck as far as getting home to Beilun that night. No more buses or trains. Buying train tickets for the first train out the next morning, we resigned ourselves to looking for a hotel to pass the next 10 hours. Avoiding a typical Chinese scam (that's another story there!), we finally came to rest on a pokey-springed mattress in a death-box of a hotel room. But it's cool. We lived to tell. If we were ever on the Amazing Race, we would totally dominate.
Adventuring our way through yet another night in Asia, we essentially conquered every obstacle that stood in our path. Watch out, China!
The next morning, Saturday, February 16, we had successfully boarded an 8:05am train out of Shanghai and back to Ningbo. In Ningbo followed the quickest, smoothest, best taxi ride either of us had ever experienced in our time combined in China! What a pleasant way to end the travels.
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| On the train ride home |
Beilun's cold winter sun greeted us, as did our newly-fixed Boba Jett pupperz (complete with "cone of shame")... On Valentines, we realized the irony of the day on which Jett is getting his
masculinity taken away from him. Happy Valentine's Day, Jett dear, we're gonna snip your
man bits now so you can't do any puppy-makin'. Sorry, pooch. Neutering in China is a pretty foreign idea; we have to fully explain to Chinese people why, when after staring at him for long awkward intervals in elevators or while out walking him, we would ever want to do that to our dog.
Then we just had about 1500 photos to sift through, organize, and prioritize.
Trip reflections:
Regrets-
- Losing my most awesome rain jacket (shell to an awesome winter coat combo). Best. Jacket. Ever. I just hope someone who needed it far more than I is now very happily using it!
- Having heat rash (oh, AND massive bruising spider and mosquito bites)
Highlights-
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| Elephants! |
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The perfectly-timed jumpy jumpy photos,
taken by our guide Vireak on his first try.
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Though difficult, seeing and learning first-hand, with primary resources at the tips of my fingers, in Phnom Penh's museums more about the Khmer Rouge of the Pol Pot Regime, the killing fields, and other tragic recent history
- Bicycling around thousand-year-old ruins of ancient civilization, and learning more about the region's deep history, rooted in Buddhism and Hinduism
- Jumpy jumpy photos around Wonders of the World
- Splashing in the Siem Reap River with Khmer children and non-verbal communication with them
- The tiny, but ever-so-strong little Khmer girl who jumped on my back, straddling me, to give me the most powerfully glorious back massage
- Elephants and tigers. Most especially being lifted by the secure grasp of an elephant's trunk
- The wonders of Thailand: Pad Thai in Thailand, the Bay of Thailand, warm weather, fireworks, and a good friend to enjoy it with!
That's all for now; it took me all week just to organize photos when I had the time, between being back at school and everything else in life. So that was the conclusion to one of the most awesome vacays taken to date. They just keep getting better. I feel so blessed.
Check out my Facebook photo album for my
Chinese New Year holiday travels (apparently this is the
public link to the album, which states, "You can use this link to share this photo album with
anyone,
even if they don't have a Facebook account. Anyone with the link will be able
to see your photo album.")
Also, for the video tour of our trip, PLEASE visit
Kari's blogpost. They truly encapsulate so much of the spirit of the trip that I would not be able to verbalize.