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Monday, February 11, 2013

Biking Angkor Wat (day 3), Kampuchea day 5

Yesterday we saw Angkor Thom and Angkor Wat. Today we biked out to Banteay Srey (for a total of maybe around 100km today) to an intricate Hindu temple devoted to Shiva (god of destruction). The ruins were fantastic, and carvings ornate and exquisitely intricate.
A distorted panoramic from inside Angkor Wat.
Sorry the right side didn't align in the panorama app. (just ignore it)

We continue learning Khmer language... Akuun thom thom (thank you very much), Ta akuun (no thanks), and sousdei (hello), being some of the basics. I spelled them all phonetically as an English speaker would probably be most likely to recognize and pronounce them.
Stirring palm syrup to make little palm sugar candies.

After noon, we enjoyed a picnic lunch out the back of our support van, and then played with some local kids in the river... Splashing around and watching them jump off the bridge (the water was far too shallow for us though, twice their height).

We ended the afternoon with an art school, learning about the carving and silk painting that is practiced around this region. We also enjoyed some FANTASTIC ice cream... I found the first MINT CHOCOLATE CHIP I have tasted in a very long time (mint doesn't exist in Asia... The green tea flavor is deceptively disappointing.).

Now we are going to head out on the town for a bit.
A peek into our suite room
at our Seam Reap guesthouse
With our Khmer-Chinese driver, Vannak, and the presents he gifted us
because he was late on our second day of the tour, due to
celebrating Chinese New Year.
With Vireak, our tour guide.

Saturday, February 9, 2013

Biking Angkor Wat (cycle tour day 2), Kampuchea (day 4)

photomap

We are about to head out from our hotel in Siem Reap, Kampuchea (Cambodia), for another awesome day of biking.

Arrival in Kampuchea (Phnom Penh to Siem Reap)

Khmer currency (and some USD, also accepted here)
Some things to note about Cambodia:

  1. Nobody here calls it Cambodia. The name is referred to as Kampuchea.
  2. The language, people, and currency (when not using US dollars) is called Khmer (pronounced Ka-meer (though some pronounce it "Kha-mare", in English pronunciation), but "kha-mai" by native "Kampucheans").
  3. We are here during the dry season, which is November-April. The weather is warm in the evenings and mornings, reaching the 90s (Fahrenheit) around 1-4pm before cooling off again. It's humid. Almost muggy. 
  4. The Khmer population (some of whom are of mixed Chinese descent) still celebrates Chinese New Year, in part (it is a lunar observance). So we did not totally skip out on all the decorations and fireworks.
We arrived to Cambodia on Thursday night, greeted by my friend Derek (Dom) from Whitworth. He is in the Peace Corps, serving in a provincial village on the southwestern side of the worlds larges freshwater lake, Tonla Sap (10,000 square km during wet season, shrinking down to a mere 3,000 during the lowest of dry seasons). He and another PCV (Peace corps Volunteer) met us at the airport and we all went out for the night. We spent the first night and following day (the 7th through the morning of the 9th) in Phnom Penh, the country's capital city.

We took in the sights, were taught much about the local culture--past and present. We went to the S21 facility, now a museum of the atrocities that were committed during the Khmer Rouge, close by to the infamous Killing Fields. What a somber, but educational day that was. All of my past knowledge of the country's violent history fell into place and was supplemented by that real-life visualization and meeting survivors and hearing personal stories. Everyone in this country has such a traumatic past. I could go into much more detail at another point in time. Having this basis of knowledge helps us really see Kampuchea through more than just a tourist's eyes.

"Abu"
We spent the late afternoon walking around, getting a taste of the city, walking down by the Mekong River and sitting there as the sun began to set, sipping wine and enjoying people-watching. We met the cutest little boy while relaxing, who was entertained my my iPhone for at least an hour. He took dozens of photos and got a kick out of skipping through my music. Kari named him Abu, because, we didn't get much more than little monkey sounds out of him, other than the fact that I correctly guessed he was four years old.

After a late night on the town, we were up and going early on Saturday morning to catch a 7:30 bus out of Phnom Penh, 6 hours northwest to Siem Reap. It was really a luxury bus, by my standards, with refreshments, the mandatory 1990s karaoke music videos, and wifi!!! Despite the lack of sleep the night before, aside from a 20-minute snooze, I was attentive and took in as much as I could of the Kampuchean countryside from out the window. I snapped many photos and contemplated comparisons to other countries I have experienced.
Khmer road sights
We arrived in Siem Reap around 1pm, and our guide Vireak, contracted privately through World Expeditions, met us with our driver, Vannak, whereupon we discovered that we had a private tour! (While booking through World Expeditions, our Tour Coordinator made it sound like we were part of a larger tour group.) This will be a fantastic few days to come!
On da bikes... day one!

Wednesday, February 6, 2013

TIC: split pants

On the bus still. Perfect display of the use of baby split pants... grandma gets the kid ready to pee on the bus. On the stairs. Right in front of us. Heat on full blast, the urine smell emanates from the floor. The best part is, we are still at the rest stop.

Ummm... Really, China? C'mon. We were on a 15-minute rest. You couldn't have anticipated that the kid would have to pee after being on a bus for two hours? Taken her off earlier to actually USE the proper facilities? Kari and I laughed hysterically while everyone else just looked on. Apparently they like the smell of urine for another hour...

This. Is. China.
(Too caught up in the moment at the time to take the picture while in action.)

On the road!

photomap

After a little mishap with some misplaced passport photos (she had them just a day ago, honestly! where could they have gone to?!) and having to take, edit, format, and run to school to print off more (thanks to the art teacher's color printer!), we caught a taxi and made it to the bus station in perfect time, as it was just boarding. Now we are on our way to Shanghai to catch a plane to Cambodia!! Kari will have to wait two hours until we are in Shanghai to have her coffee this morning...

CNY vacay travel plans

Just as an FYI, to all my faithful followers... my flatmate Kari and I will be embarking tomorrow on our Chinese New Year vacation. Our holiday adventures include the exotic locations of Cambodia and Thailand! Here's a short glance at the itinerary, if you care to follow us. I'm sure we'll be updating Facebook/blogging little statuses as we go, iPhone always handy.
Follow the Green Points along our Asian travels in the next 9-10 days!
Timeline:

Wednesday, Feb 6: 
Last day of school; I'm heading home to pack! Itineraries and info packets printed. Ready to go!

Thursday, Feb 7:
  • 7am(ish): take taxi to Beilun, Ningbo long-distance bus station
  • Take (7:40am) bus to Shanghai South Railway Station, metro/subway to Hongqiao (Shanghai) Airport (to arrive in Shanghai around 11:30am-ish)
  • Fly from Shanghai to Guangzhou for a layover, then on to to Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Leave
Thu, Feb 7
7hr 5min Total time
Depart
Shanghai

China Southern Airlines 3538
Economy | Airbus A321
752 mi | 2hr 30min
2:45 PM
Hongqiao International Airport (SHA) | Terminal 2
Stop 1
Guangzhou, China
Baiyun Airport (CAN)
5:15 PM
Baiyun (CAN)

Change planes. Time between flights: 1hr 50min
Depart
Guangzhou, China
Baiyun Airport (CAN)

China Southern Airlines 323
Economy | Airbus A321
976 mi | 2hr 45min
7:05 PM
Baiyun (CAN)
Arrive
Phnom Penh
8:50 PM
Pochentong (PNH)















  • Arrive in Cambodia around 9pm. Meet up with my friend Derek (who is a Peace Corps Volunteer about two hours south of the Cambodian capital city, Phnom Penh)
  • Stay the night in Phnom Penh (PP), at a nice little riverside guesthouse/hotel, Phnom Penh City Hotel

Friday, Feb 8: Phnom Penh (PP)
PP exploration for the day, stay another night at the same Phnom Penh City Hotel

Saturday, Feb 9: PP to Siem Reap (for the start of a bicycle tour around Angkor Wat!) 
  • Take an early bus (Mekong Bus line) from PP to Siem Reap (7:30am) (~6 hour trip)
  • Transfer shuttle between bus station to hotel in Siem Reap (around 2pm)
  • Begin bike tour around Angkor Wat, Day 1: On arrival in Siem Reap you will be met and transferred to your hotel. Today we cycle along Siem Reap River through lush scenery past Chreav Village to Tonle Sap Lake. This is an excellent opportunity to see how the people of this once sleepy village live. We can observe life in the Khmer stilt villages from the banks of the river as the local fisherman count their catch and prepare it for the markets. Back on our bikes we cycle down the backroads to visit Prasat Wat Athvea Temple before returning to Siem Reap town. (Cycle approximately 30kms) 

Sunday, Feb 10: Day 2 bike tour: 
Cycle around Angkor Temples and to the Rolous group
After breakfast we will set off along what is known as the Angkor short circuit. We will visit stunning temples such as Ta Prohm, intentionally left with huge forest overgrowth. This gives the temple a mystical air and every corner you turn presents you with another photo opportunity. We also cycle along the Eastern gate of Angkor Thom before exploring the famous Bayon Temple. The Bayon temple has 37 free standing towers each with 4 carved Buddha like faces oriented towards the cardinal points. This is a great temple to visit as the local monks in their saffron robes frequently come here to meet tourists and practice their English. After relaxing for lunch, we will visit the splendid temple of Angkor Wat. Angkor Wat is breathtaking with its 5 main towers rising 65 meters from the ground. Depending on the time available to us we may have an opportunity to cycle to the lesser known Rolous Group of temples built in the 9th century before returning to our Siem Reap hotel. (Cycle approximately 35kms.)

Monday, Feb 11: Day 3 bike tour: 
Full day cycle to Banteay Srey Temple
This morning we start out early for our largest cycling day to the exquisite temple of Banteay Srey. Banteay Srey, also known as the Ladies’ Temple, has some of the finest displays of carvings in the whole of Cambodia. The carvings here are said to be so delicate that only a lady could have carved them. The cycling route to the temple takes you past beautifully lush scenery of rice fields and sugar palms through small Khmer villages and is often the highlight of many peoples cycling journey. (Cycle approximately 70kms.)

Tuesday, Feb 12: Day 4 bike tour: Trip concludes in Siem Reap
  • Shuttle transfer to bus station (around 5am?) to catch a bus out of Siem Reap, to Bangkok
  • Bus (departs @ 6am) to Bangkok (~8-9 hour trip)
  • Bus switch at the Cambodian/Thai border?
  • Arrives at some unknown station, “Bangkok Khav Sun Road Station (Hang Tet bus) around 3pm. It'll be an adventure trying to figure out public transport to get ourselves to a bus station that will successfully connect us on the next leg of our journey...
  • Figure out bussing transport from Bangkok to our beach destination (in a little town called Jomtien, just north of the larger beach city, Pattaya). It should be about a 2-hour bus ride north, out of Bangkok and up the coast.
  • Lodging: Casuarina Jomtien Hotel. Yeah, we're excited. 

Wednesday, Feb 13-Thursday, Feb 14: spend the day in Jomtien/Pattaya area
Beach & exploring!
Lodging: continued stay at the Casuarina Jomtien Hotel.

Friday, Feb 15: return to China/travel day
  • Leave Jomtien beach area (by bus?) to get to the airport by 10am for check in. We'll figure it out when we get to Jomtien, having local recommendations for best transport.
  • Fly back to Shanghai (Hongqiao) out of Bangkok. Itinerary:

Return
Fri, Feb 15
7hr 10min Total time
Depart
Bangkok

China Southern Airlines 358
Economy | Airbus A321
1,047 mi | 2hr 35min
11:55 AM
Suvarnabhumi Int'l airport (BKK)
Stop 1
Guangzhou, China
Baiyun Airport (CAN)
3:30 PM
Baiyun (CAN)

Change planes. Time between flights: 2hr 15min
Depart
Guangzhou, China
Baiyun Airport (CAN)

China Southern Airlines 5308
Economy | Airbus A321
752 mi | 2hr 20min
5:45 PM
Baiyun (CAN)
Arrive
Shanghai
8:05 PM
Hongqiao International Airport (SHA) | Terminal 2
Flight 5308 Operated by CHINA EASTERN AIRLINES


















  • Take (8:30pm (or 10:30pm)) train back to Ningbo from Shanghai, depending on when we get in, or figure out alternative bussing or taxi pick ups in Ningbo or Beilun, upon arrival. This leg of our journey will be the least of our concerns, as it involves travel we are familiar with.

Here's to a long week of adventures! Keep us in your thoughts and prayers! Thanks!

In Honor of a New Year



It's that time... when people make resolutions and ponder lies ahead in the year to come. It's Chinese New Year. (Well, technically CNY is Feb. 9-10, but it's being observed legally on Mon. 11th, though up to a month's holiday is taken by many businesses and institutions.)

Chinese lanterns, decorated by our AIAN students
Today (Friday), we just had a Chinese New Year Celebratory Day, complete with yummy foods, fun traditions, and traditional festive activities and an all-school assembly. (See photos in this blog post as the narrative for that day's activities.)

In the coming weeks, we'll have a 10-day break from school, February 7-17, during which Kari and I will be adventuring through Cambodia and Thailand--MUST GET OUT OF CHINA DURING CNY-SPRING FESTIVAL CELEBRATIONS!!! You see, travel within China is made nearly impossible by a Romanesque-
census type of mass migration of people filtering in and out of cities and the countryside, trekking at great lengths to get back to celebrate the holiday with their families, as is Chinese custom. (Think, Western Christmas/religious holidays and/or Thanksgiving, 4th of July, and New Year's holidays all combined.) Though seeing/participating in some CNY celebrations will be in order (parades, festivals, noisy displays of music and artistry), the majority of the holiday for foreigners means that shops will be
closed, or keeping irregular hours, and travel in the country will be constipated and severely delayed/expensive/inconvenient, due to all the citizens'/nationals' domestic travel activity. So we opt to leave the country and explore Southeast Asia. There will still be plenty of celebrating to experience in China pre- and post-CNY (which happens to fall on the weekend of Feb. 9-10, according to this year's lunar calendar). 
Chinese character/zodiac art:
individual artwork animals by students and staff members
Chinese buffet lunch! Pot-stickers,
dumplings, chow mein, and more!
So anyway, at this point of transition in the lunar calendar, I thought I'd take some time to reflect on my past year... I should note that I began these reflections more than a month and a half ago, right before our Western calendar's New Year celebrations, at the time when my culture typically contemplates resolutions, reflects on the past, and looks to future dreams and aspirations...

Whirlwind doesn't even begin to explain the pace of my travels and adventures through the last year. Flipping through the worn pages of my passport, I see my year in review: Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Nicaragua, (haha back and forth back and forth, and Panama was in there somewhere too, but maybe about 18 months ago), USA Dept Homeland Security for a check in... and then on to 12 European locations: UK/England, France, Switzerland, Austria, Belgium, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Italy, the Vatican, Monaco, Spain, and Portugal, {insert extra pages for $80}, China, Hong Kong, and South Korea, most recently. 

What's next? Well, no different from around this time last year, thoughts of the future cloud my mind, as I not only contemplated what I wanted to do for Chinese New Year (Cambodia? Thailand? Laos? All three?), or spring break (Japan? Or just travel around massive
Making sugar-candy sucker-art!
China?) or summertime (New Zealand? US?). No, I contemplate more than just my addiction to discovering new horizons and the thrill of a change of scenery. I realize the travel bug bit and infected me a long time ago, implanting in me a now deeply-rooted desire to explore, question, see what and who is new, and investigate anthropological, historical, and cultural components of various regions of the world. Every place has unlimited facets of culture to observe--whether just passing through or there for a more permanent time of residency. There is an vast expanse of unknowns to discover!

Sugar candy butterfly sucker
Having an expert certificate and foreign identification in China (I'm considered an "expat" here, not just a foreigner "laowai") has put new things into perspective for me this time around as I continue living abroad. China is no Latin America, and I find myself comparing my life abroad to past years' experience living in Chile, Costa Rica, and traveling other various parts of Central and South America. That said, Asia is so unique and different from my experiences in Europe, Africa, and the Americas combined. I am excited to continue observations in Southeast Asia, brief as my visits may be in that region of the globe.

Chinese lanterns and dragon!
So... what IS next? I know that when my contract is up at AIAN this July, I will be moving on, as much as I desired to stay in one place for a longer period of time. Without going into too much detail about the specifics of the situation--though I love the international community that exists in Beilun, Ningbo, as well as the convenience of exploring Asia and this side of the globe while I'm in this hemisphere--if I stayed at this school, it just wouldn't be healthy for me. "Healthy" in a couple of terms. One, professionally. I am not a teacher by profession. Though I have ELL Certification, having acquired it during my undergrad studies, I don't have a Teaching Certificate. (I have contemplated getting my Masters in Teaching, at some point in the not-so-distant future. I feel like having an MIT might be a good tool to possess in my belt of skills.) But I studied Cross-Cultural Studies (and Spanish and Communications). I am most passionate and excited when learning about cultures, the way they interact, observing clashes and learning from my own experiences as a traveler. Knowing what it's like to be a student in a foreign culture. Or a foreigner. Or an immigrant. Observing the socio-economic, political, and religious stratas intrigues me. But yet, in all these interests, I do recognize a desire I have for permanency as well, a sense of home, and a constant, consistent community. (Though I know I can find a sense of belonging and purpose nearly anywhere I go). But realistically, in pursuit of my own well-being, I now have a need for stability for my health.

2nd graders are instructed on
how to make dumplings, ... lunch!
Which leads me to health in the physical sense. My respiratory issues in China have not become any better, as compared to my conditions upon leaving Costa Rica, though I have been able to experiment with Eastern medicine a bit, and still intend to explore and investigate other techniques as well. My health issues that have arisen in the last year or so have really made me live life with a new perspective. I have to make different decisions and live more cautiously, or at least more regularly and scheduled. This may sound weird to those who knew me in my growing up years. You're probably thinking, hasn't Lara always been scheduled and orderly and regimented? Well, in perspective, as a matter of balance, in the last several years of my life, living and traveling abroad, I have learned to become much more spontaneous, relaxed, and care free. Pura Vida. Going with the flow. And I've enjoyed it. I've learned to take things that come at me without freaking out. Latino lifestyle or influence rubbing off on me? Perhaps. Or maturity and experience that comes with age over time? Also likely. 

In my "wisdom" that all my 24 years have compounded, I have truly come to learn that life is all about balance. There is a time and place for scheduling. Likewise, there is a time and a place to be carefree. It is all contextual. And there is balance. I like balance. I like being healthy. I must now return to regimenting my life into scheduled blocks of time, taking regulated medications and monitoring my health conscientiously to know when I must take precautions to conserve energy and preserve my well-being (both physically and emotionally, so that I am sound of mind and body). 

Chinese students dress for the occasion!
Though my desires waver back and forth from time to time (ok, month to month--no, week to week--alright, perhaps even on a day-to-day basis), I think I want to look for some sense of permanency, or at least to have more of a stabile home base. That's not to say I won't travel or continue to explore cultures, but I need one place to gather up and store all of my belongings that have been spread out over all the past several years of living abroad, traveling, studying, and working. My parents want my boxes of random stuff out of their house for sure, so they can repaint the purple-and-green polka-dotted and striped walls of my old bedroom. I think I have stuff in Spokane, possibly at my Gramma's in Hollister, CA still, and all this new stuff with me here in China. 

A few months ago, I was NOT ready to move back Stateside. I couldn't imagine my life in that context yet. I was still grappling and struggling with new concepts and realizations and ideas of how I should act and choose to live my life, even in the most basic of daily life practices--from grocery shopping to choosing household products, to recycling and composting. I wasn't ready to enact those changes for a more permanent lifestyle in my daily life. I hadn't processed fully that which I have been coming into contact--the cultural differences and different ways of living. While I can't say I have fully digested all my experiences, I can say that I have a better grasp on reacting and knowing how I can personally enact change to live in a manner that is conscientious but not extreme. I want my life experiences to be lived out as a globally-conscientious citizen of the world.

Typical high schoolers, in traditional Chinese garb,
waiting for the assembly to start
I think I could incorporate my beliefs and what I have learned and realized first-hand, breaking the invisible barrier of ignorance--stigmas and stereotypes, generalizations and unknowns that float around out there. I CAN be the change I want to see in the world. I am empowered and educated to make conscientious decisions. I can live in a manner that is tangibly affecting positive change in my immediate, and even global, communities to which I have been introduced and settled myself into.  In experiencing diverse world cultures, I think that with time and distance (removal or relocation) from those experiences, new perspectives and wisdom continue to develop and grow. I continue processing, my worldview (yeah, such buzzwords still exist post-Whitworth) still ever-expanding, with support and perspective from wise and experienced people who are continually there for me, and new friends who make an impact as well. I feel fortified and empowered to make healthy decisions for a positive future. 

Middle School dancers wait for their turn to present;
I did hair and makeup for about two dozen girls !
As you can probably gather from my implications, I'm not saying that I want to settle down and become stagnant and do the same thing for the rest if my life; I just cannot see myself content with that sort of lifestyle. I still have dreams to follow, passions to pursue, and visions to explore. But at least for a spell, I want consistency and regularity. And familiar faces. With maybe the occasional travels and exploration peppered in every couple months, to satiate my desires for new and change, and continue spicing my life up with food for thought. There is always room for growth and development. 

I'm trying to figure out what type of job I want to look for next. But there are a lot of factors to be considered... you know, my health primarily. But also other stuff... like personal relationships with family and friends. Proximity to loved ones. And then logistical details as for when/how/where to go about moving all my stuff. How much money that will cost, and paying back loans and having bills to pay, and other stuff all the while. How do I balance that with my desires for travel and adventure, and
My ELL Coordinator colleague, French-Canadian, Line:
she sang Beijing opera!
...and little 4th-grade dancers and our secretary, Shirley, assisted.
 learning about new cultures and anthropology? And what about my aspirations for grad school? Ack! So much. I oftentimes find myself needing to talk (or write) through my thoughts. I am tiring of having things up in the air every other year or so, and having to move and start a completely new chapter. It's just not a convenient or appealing lifestyle to me anymore. So much has changed in my life due to my health conditions.

So (I always tell my elves never to start sentences with "so," as a transition word. It drives me up the wall... But I do it all the time colloquially)... that's all to say, as we start a new (lunar/eastern) year, I am blessed with new perspectives and contemplate life with deeper understanding and insight. Does it make deciding on my future plans any easier? Nope. Most definitely not. I'm probably even more indecisive than ever, with more options. There are so many choices and endless combinations of options if what to do next. It's just a matter of weighing all the pros and cons (if I can get them all up on that figurative scale, that is). And then deciding on what's best, with my perspective. (I also tell my students that "And" is not a transition word, and they are never to use it at the start of a sentence, rather only as a connecting word between phrases or clauses. This is definitely a narrative and not a formal piece of writing.)

Chinese New Year wishes and decor adorn our hallways
That's a look into my mind at this point. This entry was more of a reflective, journalistic exercise than an update. Sorry if it was boring. It's rather helping me to process.

The Road goes ever on and on
Down from the door where it began.
Now far ahead the Road has gone,
And I must follow, if I can,
Pursuing it with eager feet,
Until it joins some larger way
Where many paths and errands meet.
And whither then? I cannot say.
-The Hobbit